SANCERRE

A mere ten-minute drive away, perched atop a hill and guarded by an age-old castle, lies the tranquil village of Sancerre, enveloped by its world-famous vineyards.

Life in Sancerre operates at its own pace. Ellen, my local guide and wine connoisseur, sidesteps the typical tourist routes and takes me instead to Chloé’s farm. Time seems to stand still amid the mingling scents of fresh vegetables and blooming flowers. Food enthusiasts, some arriving by bike, stand in line, conversing and sharing recipes. It’s a living tableau, with prices scrawled on torn pieces of brown paper bags and bills written by hand—welcome to Sancerre, where time is but a detail.

As the sun begins to set, I find myself at La Maison des Sancerre. More than just a wine museum, it serves as a communal hub that bridges vineyard growers with the general public. Here, on a breathtaking terrace overlooking the endless valleys below, five euros buys an intimate encounter with local winemakers eager to share their crafts and stories. If my new motto is “live slow and healthy”, Sancerre has embraced it for centuries.

Not far is Chavignol, a mere five-minute drive away. Home to the famed Crottin cheese, this two-hundred-person village seems to host an almost equal number of winemakers and cheesemakers. We sample aged Crottin, perfectly paired with both red and white wines, all while sitting on the porch of a centuries-old house. In this old house, in this old village, time seems to be counted by the difference in the age of cheese, while I lose my sense of which century I live in.

And let’s not forget to visit to the elderly beekeeper up the hill. To reach him, one must ring a rusty old bell that echoes through the woods. What greets you is a smiling old man, a timeless figure at the border of an enchanted forest.

Dinner, naturally, is a simple yet divine affair—fresh tomatoes, honey-drizzled cheese, and, of course, a bottle of crisp Sancerre wine.

Back in Cosme-sur-Loire, this village’s old-world charm extends to its Sunday market, an event that every Sunday appears to draw in every local resident, whether as a vendor or a visitor. I feel a palpable sense of community as I walk by stalls brimming with fresh-baked baguettes, an array of artisanal cheeses, colorful spices and vegetables. Among the more unique offerings, a truck peddles live chickens and rabbits. The market is more than just a place to shop—it’s a weekly gathering that stitches the fabric of this close-knit community together.

The region’s rich history is ever-present, particularly visible in the grandeur of two imposing castles that grace the landscape. They stand as stone sentinels, reminders of a heritage that continues to breathe life into the community today.

My excursion to Sancerre surpassed all my expectations; it was a bucolic adventure that has etched itself into my memory. It’s the slower, more deliberate pace of life that has truly captured my imagination. The experience has left me not just with a craving for Sancerre’s exceptional vintages, but also with a longing for a way of life that beckons me to learn French, slow down, and make this magical place my new home. À bientôt, Sancerre.

(Special thanks to Ellen Jacobsmeier. Ellen is a WSET Diploma candidate, travels the world, run her international wine business and found the time I needed to be my guide for several days, this article would never have been possible without her)

Stefano Campanini
Vinitaly – Italian Wine Ambassador
Certified Italian Wine Educator
Wine By The Bay

6942 NE 4th Avenue,
Miami, FL, 33138
305-455-9791
stefano@winebtb.com

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*Read more on this and other features in the ”DISCOVER CARTAGENA AND BARRANQUILLA” COVER (THE BEAUTY ISSUE 24 – COLLECTOR’S EDITION)